| Brake Caliper Relocation Installation Instructions | ||
| 1. | Place the bike on a motorcyle jack to remove the rear tire. Insure the bike is secure to prevent it from falling off the jack. | |
| 2. | Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the brake bracket. Tie the caliper up out of the way so that it does not hang on the brake hose. | |
| 3. | Remove the brake caliper locating bolt. Be sure to support the bracket to prevent damage. | |
| 4. | Loosen the axle nut on the left side of the rear tire. | |
| 5. | The brake bracket should now be loose enough to swing down below the swing arm. | |
| 6. | Place the pin of the relocation bracket into the brake caliper locating bolt hole on the brake bracket. It may be tight but a little persuasion will make it fit. The bracket should be pointing upward towards the swing arm. | |
| 7. | With the bracket pin firmly placed in the brake bracket, pivot the brake bracket up so that the relocation bracket moves between the wheel and the swing arm. Adjust until the hole in the relocation bracket bracket lines up with the locating bolt hole on the swing arm. | |
| 8. | Reinstall the brake bracket locating bolt, insuring that it goes through the new relocation bracket. | |
| 9. | Torque the locating bolt to factory specifications. | |
| 10. | NOTE: Brake fluid will remove paint if left on for a period of time. Be sure to wipe down any painted parts that get brake fluid on them in the following steps. After installation, give the bike a good wash to remove any remaining brake fluid. | |
| 11. | Now the brake line needs to be routed below the swing arm. Most exhaust will be in the way. Two methods can be used to move it below the swing arm. Process 1 involves removing both shocks and raising the bike high enough to clear the exhaust. Process 2 involves removing the caliper from the brake line. Since the caliper has to be removed from the brake line in later steps, I will explain process 2. | |
| 12. | The following steps are easier with the assistance of another person. Have your helper fully depress and hold down the rear brake pedal. Do not pump it. This will prevent excessive loss of brake fluid and save a lot of time bleeding brakes in later steps. | |
| 13. | With the pedal depressed, hold the brake caliper with the brake line on the top side. Loosen and remove the banjo bolt that holds the brake line to the brake caliper. Be sure to note where the two silver washers are located on the bolt (one on each side of the brake line.) Without turning the brake caliper over, quickly move it to the bottom side of the swing arm cover. Avoid spilling brake fluid out of the caliper. | |
| 14. | Move the brake line between the swing arm cover and the exhaust and reinstall it on the caliper. The brake line will need to be installed upside down and 180 degress opposite of the factory position on the caliper. This will make sense when you reinstall the banjo bolt. The line just needs to flow smoothly to the caliper. Install it the easiest way it will go to the caliper. If the caliper will slide over the brake rotor and line up with the two bolt holes, then the brake line is installed correctly. | |
| 15. | Once you have properly torqued the banjo bolt, your helper can release the rear brake pedal. | |
| 16. | Since the banjo bolt was removed, the rear brake must be bled to remove any air that was allowed into the lines. This step has to be done with the brake caliper positioned with the bleeder valve the highest point. Remove the caliper from the brake bracket and turn the caliper so the bleeder valve is on top. | |
| 17. | Since the caliper is not installed on the rotor, a small piece of wood or aluminum must be placed between the brake pads to provide pressure when bleeding the brakes. Attach a clear hose to the bleader valve nipple. The other end should go in a can to control the fluid during bleeding and prevent air from entering the caliper through the bleeder valve. | |
| 18. | Your helper will need to pump the brakes three or four times and hold the pedal forward. The pedal will probably feel like no pressure is being applied at first. Follow the process and the pressure will increase each cycle. | |
| 19. | With the pedal held forward, loosen the bleeder valve to allow fluid and air to escape. The valve must be closed before the pressure on the brake pedal is released. | |
| 20. | Steps 17 and 18 must be repeated until the pedal is solid with no give when pressure is applied. Keep a close eye on the brake resevoir to insure there is adequate fluid. It cannot run out or you will be starting over again. If the pedal feels squishy or soft then there is air still trapped in the lines. | |
| 21. | Once the lines are bled properly, bolt the brake caliper to the brake bracket using the caliper bolts. Torque the bolts to specifications. | |
| 22. | Torque the axle nut to specifications. | |
| 23. | If loosened, torque the pinch nut to specifications. | |
| 24. | Insure all bolts have been tightened properly. | |
| 25. | The new relocation bracket should be flush against the brake bracket. The locating pin should go completely through the bracket and have at least 1/4" sticking out the other side. | |
| 26. | Lower the bike and test the brakes. Then take the bike for a ride testing the rear brake at slow speeds to insure proper operation. If everything works properly, enjoy the ride! | |